Anomaly Con Report - Steamin' Good Time

It was another great year at Anomaly Con! I was lucky enough to be able to give a number of talks and demonstrations, and attended discussions of punkery, art, and social issues. I did two workshops making cuffs, one was with enthusiastic youth for Mini(on) Con. I also talked my brains out about textile history and industrialization. Turns out, I can yammer on about it, basically uninterrupted, for at least an hour...

I also has fun vending art instead of my usual cuffs and bustles! Much like my sewing I was able to work while folks watched, which means there was never really much "dead" time. (Is there ever dead time at cons? Are we ever not surrounded by fun folks? Maybe it's just because I carry a flask...)

And, I made enough money to get some goodies from other artists...

 Prints from Chaz Kemp, singer, drummer, fae extraordinaire, and dang good artist! I was sad to see Pandora Celtica put on their last performance, but it is always a joy to see those faries!

 Wee comics from local folks - A very creepy horror tale from Melanie Gilman (are you reading As the Crow Flies?) , and the first bits of an ongoing comic from Dylan Edwards (Read more, it's good!)

 A larger volume from some very nice local guys, it promises to be part of a much bigger series just as soon as pesky things like "life" stop getting in the way. I had spoken to them last year about the project, and it was inspiring for me moving forward on my comic.

And lastly, I was lucky enough to be next to David Malki, and I felt like it was time to replace the Wondermark strip which has been hanging on my fridge for 6+ years... I come from a book loving family, this is my life!

It was a wonderful weekend (as you can see from the two weeks I spent recovering before making this post!) I'm looking forward to next year, and already hatching ideas for more stitchery workshops. Steam on!

Steampunk How-to - Bustlin'

For most Victorian costuming, the top is the tricky bit. Getting a fit that is both true to your body, and true to the style can be daunting. For this project I did a mummy draft in corset to work from for making the pattern - see this post for more!

The bustle, however, while less technically difficult is still an important element! The most important factor, is to have enough of it... I had no shortage of fabric, and made generous cuts to ensure adequate yardage. 

The mannequin is a bit busty,
and does not respond to corseting.

First, if you are lining the skirt, cut and sew your lining to fit. That is, the lining should seem like just a large straight skirt. If you are not lining (or your lining fabric is a bit weak,) you will need some strips of sturdy fabric or ticking ribbon for holding up the folds.

Next, you will want to be sure that your fabric is plentiful. For example, I had 20" of waistband to be this part of the skirt, so the top of my skirt was 24". The lining (and distance from waist to just above floor) was 40", so my outer layer was 52" long.

Soooooo much sewing!

Thirdly, it is best to hang the skirt up while you create the pleats and ruffs. If you have a helper, wear it while they work. If you have a dress form or mannequin, be sure it is at the right height, and if you plan to have a cage or bustle pillow, put it on! (On the form, not on you.) If all else fails, clip it to a hanger and dangle it above the floor at the right height. You will have trouble getting good folds if you lay the skirt flat.

Then, start pinning. I start with the seams, pinning my folds through to the lining below. I try to place the folds at fairly steady intervals, working down. It may take some guesswork and re-pinning to get the right amount of lift. Don't forget to leave enough to fold over and hem! After pinning at seams, if you want more folds, mark a line straight down the fabric and pin along it.

After trying it on, hand stitch each fold. It only takes a few stitches with button or quilting cord to be reasonably sturdy. If you do, in fact, plan to be running from angry mobs of MRAs you may wish to sew a bit extra...

Votes for Women, Tools for All!

The finished skirt should have volume and swish! Note that stiffer fabrics will give the best results, particularly if Madam does not wish to wear bustle prosthetics. 

 The finished product, in front of the organ, at Anomaly Con 2016. I'll do another post in the future about some of the finishing details. E'ry day I'm Bustlin'!

Airship Spotting

 In preparation for Anomaly Con I've been playing with sepia and nibs, and so I present - Airships as illustrated by someone who has a fear of heights and has never been on one.

Steampunk How-To - Mummy Drafting

I'm no stranger to pattern drafting, in fact most of my costumes have been a custom creation by necessity! Firstly, to create (or recreate) a specific idea. Secondly, because my measurements don't seem to neatly fit a single size category. However, I have had some struggles with my Victorian creations. I finally pinpointed the issue - the corset. 

Corsets do more than tuck in the waist, they completely change the silhouette of the body. I've always managed to make reasonable adjustments for the differing distances between measure points (bust, waist, etc.) but struggles with sleeve holes and collars. The answer to this, is to make the measurements with a corset on... (duh.)

Yep, I'm a genius, right?

So, for the first time, I decided on the cheatyface approach, and got mummified. (Full disclaimer, I was not in fact embalmed.) I got a helper at my job to wrap me up, first with layers of plastic wrap, then with broad masking tape. Lesson one  - let the plastic wrap cover far more than the tape, peeling it off the tops of my boobs hurt. A lot. 

I then cut it into pattern sized pieces, as straight as one can manage on layers of tape and cling film. These were measured and traced, then smoothed out for my pattern pieces. 

Next, I prepared the materials. Oh? You thought I just went and bought some fabric? Where's the fun in that!? Why would I buy fabric, when my parents just cleared out all the curtains from a large room? 

Well, I mean, there is all the work that goes into reclaiming the fabric... but that 70s Victorian revival cannot be beat!

I did the test sewing with some white satin, if it works it becomes the lining. If not, well back to the drawing board! It did need a minor tweak, minor enough to avoid remaking the entire thing. I then used the pieces (notice I'm adding a seam allowance to the fabric, instead of the pattern pieces, this allows me to use the pattern with very different fabrics that might require a different allowance.) to cut my finals. 

Voila! It fit on the first try! Now onto sleeves... and skirt... and bustle... oh my. My consensus on the Mummy method?  10/10 - Would wrap again! (Stay tuned for more post about the finished product...

Wormwood - Poison, or Healing Herb?

The Green Fairy 

The absinthe craze of the previous centuries has given Wormwood a rather large, and fearsome, reputation. Poets would claim it gave them visions, authorities would claim it poisoned drinkers. Some folks still claim it has properties, both magical and psychoactive. But this silvery leaf, "bitterest of herbs" is more mundane than we realize (I do not mean that as an insult!)

I discovered, some time ago, that the fragrant, soft-leaved plant growing next to my shrine is a member of the Artemisia family, most likely A. absinthium - wormwood. It makes a robust tea that causes the lips to tingle. But, isn't it dangerous? In the 19th c. there was great concern about the dangerous wormwood, supposedly laced with toxic wormwood in great quantities and causing madness in those who consumed it. 

However, it is far more likely that unscrupulous makers were attempting to get that prized "fairy green" color, and using toxic additives for color, including mercury compounds. And of course, Absinthe is a strong drink, perhaps in attempting to obtain an exciting high from the Thujone, people were simply becoming drunk!

A "dangerous" plant, looking rather innocent.

Modern testing to determine the usefulness of wormwood as a drug have shown that the Thujone content can vary wildly, growing conditions and strains can impact the concentrations in a variety of ways. But even the strongest plants had very small amounts, hardly enough to "get high". Similarly, the alcohols made from Wormwood (Which include Pernod, vermouth, and chartreuse) very in thujone concentrations, but are never very strong. (Let's be clear, they are strong in booz-ocity!)

But, as an herb it has many uses besides summoning hallucinations! It's soothing on the stomach, improves circulation, brings on the menses, and as the name suggest, it helps to expel parasites.  In fact, some people suggest its use around the house to repel insects! It can, however, if taken in vast quantities damage the kidneys. Then again, so can black tea.

Dried bundles for smudging.

Magically, it is connected with the graveyard. It is often used around Samhain for rites and cleansing, and to summon the spirits of the dead. I suppose that's a bit like having visions, but not quite how the romantic poets described it...

A Very Personal Offering - Hair Art

WARNING - This post features the traditional art of making things with human hair, you might be totally grossed out by this. I don't really care. I like it.

When one thinks of Hair art, usually the Victorian Era comes to mind. While they raised the act of creating with human hair to a high art, and obsessively traded in momentos of human body parts (teeth, for example), the Victorians did not invent the art. A number of old folk traditions use hair in the making of charms, spells, sigils and the like. Both for protective and harmful magics.

 I collected hair for several months, straight from the brush. Note that it has not been cleaned, as hair is actually stronger and easier to work with when it has a bit of natural oil. I spun it up with a drop spindle, and plied each lump from a center pull ball. It spun fairly smooth and fine, with the occasional little lump or tangle.

 I then made a bias woven strap. This is a simple technique that needs no set-up nor loom, one could start it without even the pins with a little dexterity. After laying out the threads, I started on the left and wove across the other threads at a diagonal. The next thread follows the first, but alternating over and under. Thus, each thread starts with an "over and ends with an under, then wraps around to hang downwards for the next pass. Each thread moves to the left with each row, and eventually gets to be the active thread and return to the right!

It didn't take all that long to weave a few feet of this ribbon (Sewing scissors for scale.) Some of my bundles of hair yarn were longer than others, so I trimmed off the long bits to use for future projects. (It is, also, not as if I will stop growing my raw materials.) I used it to wrap a lovely bundle of flowers destined to be a very special offering. A little piece of me, carefully prepared, going back to the earth!

Happy Spring everyone!

Finds - A Victorian Tea

Don't let the summer's heat fool you, it is never a bad time for hot tea! Find a shady veranda with a cool afternoon breeze, and pull out your scones!

 

Like this fine lady, waiting for a duel. From TheGorgonist

 First one will need a suitable teapot, this one from Industrial Safari  is just the thing!

 OnceUpnTym Offers this lovely gold thread cozy, just the thing to keep your tea brewing right. 

ShoponSherman - One must have just the right tea cup of course.

 

And these fine wrist adornments will accessorize the tea-going lady with class! Made by BionicUnicorn 

 

Let us not forget the brew itself, I'm rather fond of this Requiem from DryadTea, spicy and mysterious! 

Don't forget a fan and a proper assortment of wee treats, it's tea time!

Finds - Steampunk Spring

Next week is Anomaly Con, and I am frantically working to prepare as much product as possible. But it is also growing warm outside, plants are emerging and trees budding. I crave a fine picnic in the park, and some fellow time travelers to share it with! Print by Rustic Goth

A colorful take on an old timepiece - from ArtisticQuandaries
For the Dandy man wishing to celebrate the spring colors, a fabulous topper from Beltane73
An unusual clutch to bring to a garden outing - by HopscotchCouture
Something else for the Gentlemen, a gaily printed cravat to add a touch of color to a March outing. From EngineerandtheGypsy