Thingvellir National Park - Iceland

This year we (once again) explored the surreal landscapes of Iceland. On a drizzly, foggy day we ventured into the wilds of Thingviller National Park. As the name suggests, it was the site of the historic meetings, but it is also a spot well renowned for it's natural beauty.

Through the middle of the park, and running into the bottom of the large lake, is the seam between the North American and Eurasian crustal plates. The chasm plummets underwater more than 50m, and with a good wetsuit it is possible to swim between two continents.

Even in the fog we went looking for new vantage points, and climbed an extremely steep ( I live in the Rocky Mountains, this road was the steepest I've ever seen!) road up and over a volcanic range. The tops of the mountains were an alien landscape, the road dipped and turned sharply to move between the lava crags. A carpet of tundra grasses and moss clung to the black and red stone.

Hiking trails snaked along the peaks, with lots of snow lingering. We could see that people take skis here in the winter, as well as some kind of tracked vehicles. The snow banks kept us from going too far into the wilds.

Descending into the valley again, we saw huge plumes of steam rising into the clouds. We had followed, up and down this mad road, a large grey pipe that snaked and turned over the stones, occasionally dipping underground. We discovered the source - A massive hot springs that supplies all of the hot water for the city of Reykjavik. All the showers, dishwashing, even radiator heating in the city is supplied by this pipe!

Also, we stopped and had a bite and some beers at Ion Hotel. The food was great and the view was amazing from their lounge! Staying there might be a bit rich for many folks, but it's worthwhile to enjoy a cocktail!

We continued around the lake, the clouds rising and falling. The landscape is rolling fields of lava rock, and small pastures and fields, punctuated by steep sloped berms of old flows eroding. This early in the spring it's covered in the otherworldly green moss, and the tough grasses and willows in pale yellow and rust red.

We then came to the space between worlds - Thingviller itself! A river meanders across the broad rift valley and heads for the old church, and the lake beyond. Within an impressive canyon, created by the splitting of the rock instead of the passage of water, a creek flows and then falls to the valley floor. This place was historically the site of the Althing, or great meeting.

The icelanders began meeting in this area in 930 and it grew to be a very important spot. There was adequate water and forage in the area for the horses of all the visitors, and space for tents as well. It was somewhat central to the most settled parts of the island as well. But the most important, and impressive feature is the natural amphitheater that allows one to speak to a large crowd without amplification.

From August 2012, notice how much greener it was!

The purpose of an this Althing, was to elect a lawspeaker. That lawspeaker would be someone respected in the community and trusted by the folks there. They would then recite the laws that everyone was to follow for the following year. Thus, if a change was needed in this law code it would be made.

So this, the oldest parliament in the world, was the site of the only peaceable conversion of a nation in Europe.  In 1000 , after much stirring up and agitation by Norwegian representatives, it was decided that the nation would all convert to Christianity. The reasoning was that it was impractical and unfair to have two sets of laws governing those of different religions. However, many old practices that were taboo to Christians were allowed to continue in order to ease the transition. This allowed for considerable tradition and folklore to survive long enough to be recorded. And, of course, there were some holdouts who resisted the change, moved to the Westfjords, and continued to practice the old ways...

From August 2012, notice how much greener it was!

Muhu Island - Ancient Stones

 In our second day on Muhu Island we went to the "Ancient Culture Trail". It connected a number of Pre-christian sacred sites which continued to have cultural significance for the locals into the modern period.

It wound through old forest and along pastures and fields. On such a small island it was amazing to find places so hidden and wild! We were encouraged, with informational signs, to honor Tenn - the Forest Father and Mother Earth at each stop.

 First was the meeting of Seven Roads, an ancient offering stone where small favors are left for the Forest Father.

 To make a request of Uku, the thunder god of the Finnic peoples, one hits the small stone on the larger. It's suggested not to make wishes for one's self, but for others.

 The road carried on, winding through the woods. We passed a healing rock, which did not seem to want a photo taken. There, a strange red moss grows there that grows nowhere else on the island. Healing rites are done and items and water are brought to the stone.

 The last stone we visited was Lalli Slide Rock, one of several such stones in Estonia. It is suggested that one make wishes for any new endeavors, or for a safe childbirth.

 Ready, set, weeeeeeee!

 We won't tell our wishes, then it won't come true!

 More of the lovely traditional architecture, the path snuck behind small farmsteads and around the edges of of the fields.

 Our last visit of the day was a different type of sacred stones, an ancient burial ground. The oldest artifacts date to the 1st-2nd century, the oldest burial dates to the 5th. Interestingly, the site was used several times over several hundred years, with each burial being slightly different as the culture changed. We paid our respects and enjoyed the peaceful woods.

Muhu Island was a fascinating place, the local culture has several distinct features that result from sea trade and cultural contact. But it has held fast to many old traditional practices. It was the site of the last resistance to Crusaders from western Europe, and I think the folk there have not forgotten.

For more from our Estonian travels, here's the first post on Muhu Island, Tallin - the capital and medieval fortress, Tartu - the college town, and Villjandi - a large castle and a small town. Also, Oluvestre manor - the host of Craft Camp.

Samhain Season

Today, the world is shrouded in silence. Snow coats the trees and houses, it is a reminder that this is the season to stay inside, and reflect.

Several sources close to me have pointed out, that the ancient celts did not celebrate Samhain on just one night. Indeed, the first night of Samhain may have had many of the festivities we now associate with Halloween, but Samhain was in fact an entire lunar month. Samhain was a season.

I recently did some house cleaning and rearranging. A cleared off bookshelf now hosts a small shrine (shrines happen!) with a focus on the dead. Nearby are photos of family, both living and passed, and an old envelope with my full name on it. My paternal grandfather died before I was even a year old, but when I was born, as with the dozen grandchildren before me, he wrote me a check. It was, naturally, never cashed. It's hard for babies to get bank accounts, after all. But it serves as a reminder - He wanted me to be Prosperous. 

Just two years ago my maternal grandfather passed, in about this same season. I recall, in fact, that Thanksgiving plans were made to accommodate him, and he was unable to attend. He too was concerned about the prosperity of the family, making extensive estate plans to ensure that his wealth would benefit his children and grandchildren. Both of my grandfathers were very involved in securing a good future for their families.

My Grandfather was born a very serious looking old man.

And too, did my grandmother work tirelessly. Her concerns were more immediate. She was always baking and cooking, checking to see if people were comfortable. From Her and my mother I learned to bake  - a box still exists with box sides and handwritten cards, recipes used again and again. We have never worked ourselves up in Holiday hype in December (I'm rather a Humbug type myself) but cookie baking is a holiday standard. Recipes with old fashioned ingredients, recipes that call for "a piece of butter the size of an egg."

And so, from them I learned to invest, and I learned to be generous. I learned to plan for the future, and to be frugal. (Grandpa Popo would warn that one should only ever borrow money to buy the family's house or start a business.) And so, as a gift demands a gift, I must be concerned with their prosperity too.

Many folk around the world, Pagans and pagans alike, engage in Ancestor worship. Some are concerned very much with the memory of the dead. Others are concerned with creature comforts. I am often rather equivocal about the afterlife, I am unwilling to commit to any idea with much fervor. If I expect the summerlands of the Vanir, is that optimism? Is that a reflection of the heaven of the Abrahamics? But the cold, dark realms of the Lady Hel, is that a fearful punishment to encourage warriors? But, no matter the shape of the afterlife, if I spend time communing with my ancestors - engaging with them, then there is a realm where they must dwell. And so, as they were concerned with my wellbeing, I am concerned with theirs. I set out for them a piece of fresh baked bread, or fruit, or tea. But on Samhain eve I offered them a fine treat, popcorn and rootbeer floats, much like we had every Sunday at Gramma and Grampa's house.

Because I am now responsible for ensuring for them, all the prosperity that they worked so hard to give to me. And I wish to stand, not in their shadows, but on their shoulders.

Embroidered Offering - Balance

The wheel of the year keeps turning, so that all thing remain in balance! I recently took an Oath in my spiritual path, and promised an offering. My oath was very much based on the theme of balance, so I thought my offering ought to be too!

It was a smallish piece, just one hoop's worth of stitching. I started out by divvying up the linen into quarters. I've learned that pencil lines wear off rather quickly, so I used regular sewing thread to baste in marker lines.

I did trees for the four seasons. (This is a favorite of mine!) complete with an appropriate amount of foliage - from little buds to nothing! 

 Next, faces! I had never done faces in stitchery before, if is a very interesting challenge. I have a masculine and feminine face, and I tried to make one old and one young. (They both look a bit old, hazards of hard shadows.) I'm fairly happy with how they turned out, but most importantly, the camera thought it was a person!

The final touches were some weather. Sunshine for the spring and summer, rain and snow for the fall and winter. All the things in their own time. Everything in balance.

We had a good bonfire for midsummer, and offerings were made. Welcome to the warm times! But, the days are now getting shorter, good news to keep us from getting too hot. Also good news for us travelers - I'm writing this in Iceland, the sun only set for about 3 hours last night, and it never got dark. I'm loving it in many ways, but sleep is also good! Here's to Balance!

Blessed Beltane!

This weekend us in the northern hemisphere are celebrating the warming spring, the returning green, and fertile times ahead! My garden is starting to get moving, with most of it planted.

This little guy, my white sage, is blooming for the first time, just in time to feed the bees! Blessings!

A Very Personal Offering - Hair Art

WARNING - This post features the traditional art of making things with human hair, you might be totally grossed out by this. I don't really care. I like it.

When one thinks of Hair art, usually the Victorian Era comes to mind. While they raised the act of creating with human hair to a high art, and obsessively traded in momentos of human body parts (teeth, for example), the Victorians did not invent the art. A number of old folk traditions use hair in the making of charms, spells, sigils and the like. Both for protective and harmful magics.

 I collected hair for several months, straight from the brush. Note that it has not been cleaned, as hair is actually stronger and easier to work with when it has a bit of natural oil. I spun it up with a drop spindle, and plied each lump from a center pull ball. It spun fairly smooth and fine, with the occasional little lump or tangle.

 I then made a bias woven strap. This is a simple technique that needs no set-up nor loom, one could start it without even the pins with a little dexterity. After laying out the threads, I started on the left and wove across the other threads at a diagonal. The next thread follows the first, but alternating over and under. Thus, each thread starts with an "over and ends with an under, then wraps around to hang downwards for the next pass. Each thread moves to the left with each row, and eventually gets to be the active thread and return to the right!

It didn't take all that long to weave a few feet of this ribbon (Sewing scissors for scale.) Some of my bundles of hair yarn were longer than others, so I trimmed off the long bits to use for future projects. (It is, also, not as if I will stop growing my raw materials.) I used it to wrap a lovely bundle of flowers destined to be a very special offering. A little piece of me, carefully prepared, going back to the earth!

Happy Spring everyone!