Thingvellir National Park - Iceland

This year we (once again) explored the surreal landscapes of Iceland. On a drizzly, foggy day we ventured into the wilds of Thingviller National Park. As the name suggests, it was the site of the historic meetings, but it is also a spot well renowned for it's natural beauty.

Through the middle of the park, and running into the bottom of the large lake, is the seam between the North American and Eurasian crustal plates. The chasm plummets underwater more than 50m, and with a good wetsuit it is possible to swim between two continents.

Even in the fog we went looking for new vantage points, and climbed an extremely steep ( I live in the Rocky Mountains, this road was the steepest I've ever seen!) road up and over a volcanic range. The tops of the mountains were an alien landscape, the road dipped and turned sharply to move between the lava crags. A carpet of tundra grasses and moss clung to the black and red stone.

Hiking trails snaked along the peaks, with lots of snow lingering. We could see that people take skis here in the winter, as well as some kind of tracked vehicles. The snow banks kept us from going too far into the wilds.

Descending into the valley again, we saw huge plumes of steam rising into the clouds. We had followed, up and down this mad road, a large grey pipe that snaked and turned over the stones, occasionally dipping underground. We discovered the source - A massive hot springs that supplies all of the hot water for the city of Reykjavik. All the showers, dishwashing, even radiator heating in the city is supplied by this pipe!

Also, we stopped and had a bite and some beers at Ion Hotel. The food was great and the view was amazing from their lounge! Staying there might be a bit rich for many folks, but it's worthwhile to enjoy a cocktail!

We continued around the lake, the clouds rising and falling. The landscape is rolling fields of lava rock, and small pastures and fields, punctuated by steep sloped berms of old flows eroding. This early in the spring it's covered in the otherworldly green moss, and the tough grasses and willows in pale yellow and rust red.

We then came to the space between worlds - Thingviller itself! A river meanders across the broad rift valley and heads for the old church, and the lake beyond. Within an impressive canyon, created by the splitting of the rock instead of the passage of water, a creek flows and then falls to the valley floor. This place was historically the site of the Althing, or great meeting.

The icelanders began meeting in this area in 930 and it grew to be a very important spot. There was adequate water and forage in the area for the horses of all the visitors, and space for tents as well. It was somewhat central to the most settled parts of the island as well. But the most important, and impressive feature is the natural amphitheater that allows one to speak to a large crowd without amplification.

From August 2012, notice how much greener it was!

The purpose of an this Althing, was to elect a lawspeaker. That lawspeaker would be someone respected in the community and trusted by the folks there. They would then recite the laws that everyone was to follow for the following year. Thus, if a change was needed in this law code it would be made.

So this, the oldest parliament in the world, was the site of the only peaceable conversion of a nation in Europe.  In 1000 , after much stirring up and agitation by Norwegian representatives, it was decided that the nation would all convert to Christianity. The reasoning was that it was impractical and unfair to have two sets of laws governing those of different religions. However, many old practices that were taboo to Christians were allowed to continue in order to ease the transition. This allowed for considerable tradition and folklore to survive long enough to be recorded. And, of course, there were some holdouts who resisted the change, moved to the Westfjords, and continued to practice the old ways...

From August 2012, notice how much greener it was!

Finland Travels - Kierikki Stone Age Center

On our way down from the Arctic Circle we had to make a few stops! I was on the lookout for sites of archeology and traditional culture, and of course beautiful natural beauty. 

We got all of that, and some learning, at Kierikki. The site includes a nice museum with interpretive material in English as well as Finnish. There's a mix of general information about Europe in the time period, the probable lives of humans at the time, and actual artifacts from the excavations here.

And a living history village! A number of reconstructions were built along the river, each one outfitted more or less as we expect they would be thousands of years ago. From the tanning hides and fire pits, to storage pits.

There were examples of traditional craftwork, using tools from the stone age. Many of these items were made by folks at Estonian Craft Camp as well, the tools were modern but the techniques are unchanged!

And of course, how could we skip the opportunity for a photo shoot? We need a few more longhaired rockers and we can start our own Scandinavian Metal Band.

Down by the river was a sunken storage house, for keeping food in summer and winter. In the Neolithic this settlement was on the ocean, and seemed to provide enough food for year-round living without agriculture. Seals seemed to have been an important source of both food and trade materials.

There was a row of these thatched long houses, often several connected so one could more between them without going outside! It seems like an important consideration in the long dark winters...

Since these ancient peoples would have also hunted for much of their food there were examples of traps and snares.

Most were constructed based on a mix of archeological evidence and ethnographic examples. Hunting remains very important to the Finns and Lapps, but more and more as recreation instead of a lifestyle.

Some traps were a bit cruel, trapping the animal alive. Below you see a circle of snares, and a small fall trap.

And how about this diabolic looking piece? I'm presuming they have a safety set up on this, as I imagine it would kill a human as readily as any large animal!

A classic pit trap, complete with spikes in the bottom! Simple, yet effective.

A very large fall trap. This seemed to be for trapping bears, which have great significance to traditional spiritual practices. Trapping a bear would be extremely dangerous, but also very important.

And finally, a box trap. The resemblance to a modern "humane" trap is uncanny...

A friend to guide us on our trek....

As with many spots we visited in this part of the country the ground was very wet and spongy. Great growing conditions for many of the native berries, not so great for keeping one's boots dry. Thus, a walkway built above the soft sections of forest.

The entire area along the river seems to have been occupied in the Neolithic and Early Bronze age. That indentation is a likely house site, and will be excavated in a coming season. Such indentations are common along this section of ground.

This season's active excavation, complete with grids and sifting bins. Despite the age of the site there is not a terribly thick layer of silt to work through.

The museum at Kierikki was fascinating and engaging, and the reconstructions are a wonderful touch for the history enthusiast. We sat and had our lunch around a fire, and enjoyed the forest walk. If you're ever in the area I would highly recommend!

Estonian Craft Camp - Wood Box

On our third day of workshops Mr. Crafty and I made bent wood boxes! This is a bit far from my usual fiber arts experience, there was splinters, saws, and maybe a tinsy bit of blood...

Our instructor usual teaches week-long classes. And thus he often starts with planing the wood from raw planks and using goose feathers for stitching. He explained the process, which involves stripping the fluff and soaking the stems until soft, but we did not have enough time for such an involved method.

 Instead we had planks precut, soaked overnight, and thin enough to bend with just soaking (as opposed to steaming.) In the background are pine roots, dug in the spring. We stripped the bark and split them, some were several feet long! Having been soaked as well they were soft and supple.

 The strips are wrapped and clipped, holes drilled, and stitched. The stitching process involves splitting the root a second time and drawing it through from behind. The result is a look like split stitch in embroidery. Pictured here are two boxes and two lids, Me and Mr.'s.

Here's where the photos become sparse as I was working frantically to finish the box that day. But, after making the sides we marked on planks the outline of bottom and top. The bottom sits entirely inside the ring of bent wood. The top, however, overhangs the side and so had to be cut down with a chisel. (This is where the blood happened...)

The entire box is free of metal fasteners, the lids were held on with small pegs whittled down from wood slivers. The end product is still sturdy and well fitted. After the sides dried they drew in and hugged the lid and bottom even tighter!

I had enough time after completing mine (and waiting for Mr. Crafty) to add some decoration. The teacher had a wonderful pyrography tool, made in Soviet times and therefore with no temperature limit. I was able to turn it up rather hot and burn quickly and efficiently. I am considering hacking my burning tool...

 Here's all the workshop participants! Even using the same materials we all managed to add our own flair in shapes and details to the box. The box came home with me filled with stones from our trip, and now holds ritual items and special artifacts.  I would love to make more! It was a reasonably challenging project for a woodworking newb, but not brutally difficult.

Check out my other projects from Craft Camp - Bone Carving & Mulgi Embroidery.

Do you want in on this awesomeness? Registration for Estonian Craft Camp 2016 is open!

Estonian Travels - Tallinn Hansa Festival

After traipsing about the countryside, we returned to Tallinn for the Hansa Festival. 

Like any other sort of Ren Fest, except in a real medieval town square with castle spires and stone cathedrals everywhere. So nothing like a typical American Ren Fest.

 This section of castle towers and fortified wall is from one of the oldest periods of walling off Tallinn. (Each version expanded outwards.) Situated on the tallest part of the hill it a a bit of a walk to get up to from the outside.

 Ready for pouring boiling oil...

 It was quite a steep walk on the inside too! These old winding streets curve in narrow doorways and look down on the roofs of buildings below.

 Where does this lead to? (My gaming experience both urges me to explore every alleyway, and sees that this is the perfect place for an ambush!)

Still above most of the roofs, but not all! There are 15 churches in Olde Town, all at least 100 years old.

 However the realistic and authentic the Festival, there's always a few performers that are just for fun!

 There was also a handicraft market with a mix of very ancient techniques and modern art pieces. Look at all the different mitten patterns!

 Forged goodies, just perfect for your castle. To be fair, many folk here do live in castles...

 A variety of wooden goods were available. The crafters had come from many places - most were Estonian, but one of the woodcarvers was Sami, a spinner was Lithuanian, a jewelry maker from Latvia, there was even folk from Hungary! To be fair, in Europe those distances aren't so far - Estonia is about a quarter the size of Colorado.

 Dancers preparing for an old courtly dance, with live musicians! A variety of performers shared the stage all day.

 The hunter's wares. It took a mighty bit of willpower (and a reminder of the trouble with customs) to avoid buying everything here!

Because of the Festival there was a stage in the Town Square, but there is a Medieval restaurant (which only features authentic cuisine!) that has a permanent fixture in the streets. Musicians in period dress and instruments performed here as well.

 After enjoying all the outside options we then went inside, and still found plenty of rather historic sights. Like these painted 13th c. beams in the Art gallery.

 Or the lovely arched pillars of a former dungeon cellar at "No Reception" - a hip place to have a beer!

One need not attend the Medieval Days to see the rich history of Tallinn, but it sure is fun!