Ace of Lace - Rockstar Knitting

While in Tallinn we naturally found a good bar, one with a long beer list. (We are always wanting to try new beers wherever we go, and Estonia had a remarkably thriving brewing scene!) The waitress saw me knitting, and fetched a small post card. "My friend, he owns clubs, and he knits. You should go see his knitting."

Now, I am a lover of the fiber arts, and will vehemently defend their title as ARTS as well as crafts. But I was a bit surprised, a gallery of knitting? Not a museum with traditional patterns and ethnographic pieces?

We found the building (13th c. and still looking good!), and wound up narrow steps to the gallery space. What should meet my eyes but huge round mandalas of lace - Niebling Shawls pinned out on black velvet.

And what, pray tell, is a Niebling? In knitting circles the name is fairly well known, they are challenging patterns and represent a considerable investment of time and yarn. The man (yes, a man!) behind the patterns is less well known.

Herbert R. Niebling (1903-1966) was a German textile designer with an interest in mathematics. The round shawls he is best known for are excellent examples of mathematical growth structures. Each section is knit in the round with a set number of repeats, then a row or two are knit with a considerable number of increases, and the next section will either have 2-4 times the number of repeats, or a repeated pattern that is 2x-4x larger. Thus, sections grow and expand organically.

The variety of motifs is impressive, from common lace leaf patterns to detailed realistic shapes and geometric designs. Many of the motifs can be found in older knitting patterns, and represent a number of ethnographic sources, but some may have been invented by Niebling himself. That is, however impossible to know, as patterns were rarely written down, and the exact date of an object can be difficult to judge!

Which is the other neat thing about Niebling, he created a system of charting stitches that is now almost universal. One could, without speaking a word of German, pick up an old pattern and knit it, assuming one has been trained in modern knitting charts (or has Google.)

I have seen a number of Niebling shawls in person, both on the needles and on the back. Even knit in very small yarn and needles they tend to be large and impressive textiles! With a heavier yarn and appropriate gauge of needle the doilies become massive bed covers.

However, this exhibit was perhaps the finest lace work I've ever seen. These pieces are much easier to appreciate when blocked wide and seen clearly against a backdrop. Even the non-crafting Mr. Crafty was impressed by the images and designs.

And the second artistry of these is the blocking! Not only were they perfect circles with each point carefully stretched and pinned, but the sway and flow of stitches was carefully arranged. The leaves and flowers tilted carefully, while the in-between stitches were stretched or compressed to allow the entire piece to lay perfectly flat.

I'm going to take a brief moment to remind you, gentle reader, that both the master pattern maker and the skilled knitter here are not your grandmother. In fact, they are both men. So if anyone gives you any bullshit about knitting being a strictly feminine pastime, after you're done lecturing them about medieval knitting guilds, push their face in this and tell them to *redacted*

The pieces ranged from large mandalas, about 4 ft. across, to smaller doilies perhaps only 1 ft. wide.

Here we see the beginnings of a shawl, in fine estonian wool, with wine corks as stitch savers. I mentioned that this guy owned a rock club, right?

A very worthwhile experience in Tallinn! Get a beer at Hopster and then run over and drop a few euros on this gallery, it's well worth it! Even if you're not a stitching enthusiast.

Haapsalu Estonia - Castle by the Sea

It had seemed to us, while in Estonia, that every hill of any vantage had a castle tower on it! We rode into the seaside resort town of Haapsalu on a very different sort of tourism (a site for a future post!) but found the charming town was much to our liking!

 Right in the center, looking out on the old town center from above, is an old bishopric and cathedral. Wandering through the extensive grounds are a variety of walls and buildings, of various ages, and in differing states of repair.

 The main building hosts a small restaurant, medieval games, and a museum. Artisan shops with folk doing demos are also available, but time restrained us.

 From old defensive positions - to a modern stage! The sprawling grounds are a considerable tourist attraction, with good reason.

 Old moat ditches, from this wall one could look down on the town, and out to sea!

You think this is my last post about a random old castle ruins? It's not! Hooray for traveling...

Muhu Island - Ancient Stones

 In our second day on Muhu Island we went to the "Ancient Culture Trail". It connected a number of Pre-christian sacred sites which continued to have cultural significance for the locals into the modern period.

It wound through old forest and along pastures and fields. On such a small island it was amazing to find places so hidden and wild! We were encouraged, with informational signs, to honor Tenn - the Forest Father and Mother Earth at each stop.

 First was the meeting of Seven Roads, an ancient offering stone where small favors are left for the Forest Father.

 To make a request of Uku, the thunder god of the Finnic peoples, one hits the small stone on the larger. It's suggested not to make wishes for one's self, but for others.

 The road carried on, winding through the woods. We passed a healing rock, which did not seem to want a photo taken. There, a strange red moss grows there that grows nowhere else on the island. Healing rites are done and items and water are brought to the stone.

 The last stone we visited was Lalli Slide Rock, one of several such stones in Estonia. It is suggested that one make wishes for any new endeavors, or for a safe childbirth.

 Ready, set, weeeeeeee!

 We won't tell our wishes, then it won't come true!

 More of the lovely traditional architecture, the path snuck behind small farmsteads and around the edges of of the fields.

 Our last visit of the day was a different type of sacred stones, an ancient burial ground. The oldest artifacts date to the 1st-2nd century, the oldest burial dates to the 5th. Interestingly, the site was used several times over several hundred years, with each burial being slightly different as the culture changed. We paid our respects and enjoyed the peaceful woods.

Muhu Island was a fascinating place, the local culture has several distinct features that result from sea trade and cultural contact. But it has held fast to many old traditional practices. It was the site of the last resistance to Crusaders from western Europe, and I think the folk there have not forgotten.

For more from our Estonian travels, here's the first post on Muhu Island, Tallin - the capital and medieval fortress, Tartu - the college town, and Villjandi - a large castle and a small town. Also, Oluvestre manor - the host of Craft Camp.

Kickstarter - Root & Branch - Make that Thing!

Last week I launched a Kickstarter for printing Book One of Root & Branch! We're already at 30% funded for the project, and growing all the time. 

Check out the project, and the dozens of really cool rewards available for your support. And please, share with your comic /fantasy/ art loving friends!

Muhu Island - Fishermen and Twilight

 On our jaunts around Estonia we had a quick trip to Muhu island. The island is noted for distinct cultural practices, and a very clear knitting style. (The drawings in that link? Those came from the students at the Heimtali School Museum.) Even the common colors, notably orange, were not used on the mainland.

 We stayed at a small farm house in the village of Koguva, an old fisher village that is well preserved and hosts the Muhu museum.

 As we walked the shores (late in the evening, as it goes in Midsummer,) we explored the old boats up on shore, and quietly watched a fisherman and a small child enjoying the peaceful evening.

 I love this little tiny boat! It's so tall!

 Koguva also hosts the oldest functioning windmill in Estonia (so said the local brochures, I've not been able to corroborate online.) It faced out on the Baltic, looking across to the island of Saaremaa.

 I found that the traditional housing style reminded me of Jomon Japan from my visits there. Many of these houses are listed as being hundreds of years old, with the usual thatching re-done periodically.

 What a wonderful way to end the day!

Stay tuned for more about our visit to Muhu, and the ancient cultural attractions there.

Estonian Craft Camp - The Site - Oluvestre

 I've been posting quite a bit about my experiences at last year's Estonian Craft Camp, in fact I still have two more projects to tell you about! But the making of things is hardly the best part of the camp, the scenery is just as good.

 The setting as an old manor grounds which dates to the 16th Century, with luxurious grounds, and many outbuildings that were artisan workshops.

 We had workshops in places like the ceramics shop, blacksmith, farriers, and all of this surrounded by a still functioning estate farm!

 Most of these photos were, in fact, taken by Mr. Crafty as he wandered the grounds on his days off. He only did two workshops which left considerable time to explore and spend time out  on the dales.

 In fact, there are more photos, but my camera died so they were taken on my phone! It is a really lovely site, and worth visiting even if one is not Craft Camp inclined.

 Ah, look at that endless daylight, the Midsummer sun still shining into the late evening.

If you have any crafty curiosity, and a desire to travel, I highly recommend Estonia! Craft Camp sign-ups for 2016 are open!

It's wild to see the bright summer sun while in the midst of winter, but this is how long it's taken to get to my vacation photos... Ugh! More to come, I promise! (I also realised that I may have some photos from past trips that never made it onto the blog, I'm on it!)