Friday, January 16, 2009

Imperial Palace Tokyo

Whew... It's been a few days since the last post... I'm actually back in Denver now, but I'm still catching up on blogging about our trip!  So let's travel through time and space to Dec 29th right outside of Tokyo Station.Here is the Imperial Palace, the historical and current home of the Emperor. It has two moats snaking around it, though now you can drive across the outer one and go straight through the outer park.The area around the park is completely built up, but the park has only a few small buildings that depart for the classic design. It is meticulously pruned and kept, and the buildings are mostly tourist centers restaurants and the like.Despite it's current accessibility, the original fortifications are evident. Against an army of Samurai it would be about the safest location one could find. And these are just the outer walls.The inner walls sport a wider moat and the walls vary from this size, to nearly twice that height! The bridge in the distance, like all the other ones into the inner area, are now fenced and guarded by more mundane security guards. The smaller pines in the public park were pruned sparse and round, in the common style of gardens here. But the older trees looming above the walls have been pruned to hang long and low down over the walls, this one is about 10 years from touching the water!

This is the old Imperial Castle. I believe the imperial family now lives in a more modern western-style mansion. But this is the far more impressive local. The white house is small potatoes in comparison...This guy gets his own (marvelously sculpted) statue because of unfailing baddassery and loyalty to the shogunate. And all the statues in European town squares, the ones with powdered wigs and button up coats on horseback... This guy is going to destroy you. Your musket will fail in the face of such an overwhelming foe. He will eat you for breakfast. Seriously.

Saturday, January 10, 2009

Tea Ceremony

After our walk through the fish market we made our way to a rather fancy hotel (all the staff were wearing kimono!) for a tea ceremony. I didn't take any pictures of the main ceremony, as it felt a little rude. The tea "house" is on the seventh floor. This outdoor garden is behind glass and a stone path and bamboo fence lined "garden" is the indoor entryway. The pebbles are ment to look like a stream.

The ceremony started with sweets served in two courses to all the guest. The hostess intsructed all us gaijin how to take, bow, pass the plate and eat with all the appropriate rei.

She then cleaned the implements, filled the tea bowl with matcha, pored the water, and wisked the tea powder with flair, grace, and robot like precison. The finished product was thick as salsa and rather hard to gulp down. But the process was beautiful.

We then moved to a very low slung room (pictured) for a second cup of tea, appearently a more kyoto style dig. I do like the hot pot set in the floor, but it's not hard to see why fires were such a problem in old times...

This scroll hung in the alcove, appearently something about the "sound of the wind in the pines" which is the preferred phrase to describe hot water boiling. The alcove also housed one of the new years offerings. A platform with small rolls of rice, a tradition harkening back to the days that rice was used in lieu of money.

There is also a bunch of long willow branches called "hair willow" draped across. The're supposed to bring longevity.

Sitting in seiza can really hurt after a little while though!

Friday, January 9, 2009

Tokyo Fish Market

We hooked up with a guide for a day. A local Man who likes to practice his english by giving tours to forigners for free. (Seems like a good plan actually.) We met up with him at Shinbashi Eki near the Ginza, and also met up with three Quebecois girls of Chinise desent. They spoke a lot of langueges but none of them Japanese. This guy took up first to the Fish Market.

This place is super crowded, the outskirt has stores selling tsukemono (pickled things) and other coking supplies. As we dart around crowds of people vieing for their days meal we have to beware the small delivery carts darting through traffic. Most drivers here are very courteous and look out for pedestrians, but these guys have a job to do!

Here we have some scaled fish, and tuna heads for super cheap. Even Bargin shopping Pink wouldn't know what to do with a Tuna head...

Here we have Octopus bottoms for all those tako baki vendors. I couldn't figure the difference between the ones in the back and the more expensive ones out front, I guess it takes a trained eye. And maybe you have to like the stuff... I think Octopus is way to chewy to be enjoyed.

I think they actually may use the "head" parts for tako baki, be cause I never saw any. They go straight to the chopping block and freezer?

There were many things to be bought still alive. we were there late (like 10:30 in the morning, but they start the auctions at 3AM.) so the pickings were getting slim. But one could be assured quality if the things were still swimming.

These land walking edibles got a different treatment. The arthropods were basking in a pile of bonito flakes, shaved dried fish. I guess this is the way to pre season them.

The Market remarkably did not smell overly foul. Everything was on ice and it was a cool day, but I imagine in the heat of summer I would hate to live down the block.

Monday, January 5, 2009

Meiji Shrine and Harajuku


This is the Meiji Shrine. One of the largest in Japan, and quite popular. One of it's most notable features is it's HUGE gates. There are several, and each was obviously the final resting place for some truly epic pines. Even the locals pause and take a pic. The shrine is actually rather sprawling and a fair walk into the large Yoyogi park. The path is wide and was full of foreign tourist, as well as the locals.

These are cask of sake, each emblazoned with the brewer and donor. I believe these are just for an offering, and never get drinken, but some sects of buddism know how to party, so who knows where last years stock ends up.

Here we have an equally impressive line up, and this is hardly half! these are lanterns with the names of families who donated to the shrine. The temples are well funded here it seems, as usual daily prayer also involves dropping coins into the temple box.The shrine was preparing for the new years holiday, the biggest holiday in Japan. There were huge lines of booths set up to sell good luck trinkets and prayers for hanging, traditional new years shwag (a wooden arrow has some symbolism, thus the target on the gate), food, incense, and whatever else the lined up parisioners will need. They were covering the stairs with mats to make them ramps and ease the passing of people. It seemed rather rediculous in this huge shrine to do such a thing, but the crowds are truly huge I guess. The large panels with cows are because it's the Year of the Cow (I think we usually call it "The Year of the Ox".)

The park grounds are beautiful and rather peaceful, despite the crowds. We walked only a small corner of the park, but it was lush and dense. A little different from Colorado.

As we return to civilization, and cross the bridge out of the park a number of people are gathered. Selling paintings, playing guitar, and posing for pics with foreign tourist.

We went to Harajuku on a Sunday, as I'm told all the cool people do. But the cool kids in neat clothes were a little sparse. We were told it's because of the holiday, everyone so busy preparing they couldn't go cosplay in the park.We did see mister Gay Bunny Man, a little scary actually.

This is one of the super crowded streets carrying all manner of fashion goods, each catering to a different crowd or look.Though, I didn't see any places to pick up this guys outfit...And of course a shop with shirts that came right off the scary world of the internet. Pedobear -vs- Ronald, and the sadness of anthropomorphy. This shop also had tons of reprint rock concert shirts. The slightly tattered originals were quite the rage at the near-by thrift shops. 150$ for an old Slayer shirt anyone?

Okadaya and Nippori Fabric Town


In my last visit the Japan we stumbled upon a craft shop that went up and up with a dizzying variety of goods, we got hungery before we had explored in all and I never even saw it's full extent. This time I sought out the store - Okadaya.

I went to the largest location in Shinjuku. Two buildings, one is 5 floors and a basement of fabric, the other is seven floors, some full  and some half. I couldn't take pictures inside, and it's hard to describe! Each floor has a theme (buttons, ribbon and trim etc...) and the selection is extensive! There's furthermore lots of bright, lacy, sparkly, flashy stuff that is decidedly not fitting with Japan's everyday fashion. 

The store clientel was actually mainly quite young. Outside of the knitting circle taking place on the yarn floor there were many young ladies, some with boyfreind in tow. But my arrival on the craft books floor brought clarity to the situation. A cosplay magazine and pattern monthly sat front and center. These people are building wonderful sparkly outfits to wear once a month to Harajuku. I'm so in love. This also explained the wig and hair stuff floor (2nd, in case you can't read japanese).

I indulged in a little bit of nice yarn. The selection of yarn was kinda weak on the natural fibers side, and their selection of Noro yarns was actually smaller then I've seen here in the U.S.!

A few days later we went to Nippori Fabric Town. Yes, we. I dragged poor Jet, PSP in hand along for the trip. Once again, no pics inside the shops. But the strip is replete with stores, large and small, with loads of fabric and notions. The largest is called TOMATO, and is also 5 floors of goodness.

I started at the sale side, 100en a meter, and grabbed some stuff, including scrap packs. In the main shop each floor has bolt ends for cheap, well relatively. The fabric is rather pricey! starts at 5$ a meter and goes up fast! many of the chiramen fabrics for kimono and 25$, and that's the cheapest kimonos. Craft supplies are pricy here!

Sunday, January 4, 2009

Yanaka Cematary

After going to Nippori Fabric Town (Next Post, cute stuff!) we crossed the tracks and went up the hill, only to discover the largest grave yard in Tokyo. There are appearently many famous people buried here including the Tokugawa Family.  
Here due to both Buddist tradition and Japanese law every one is cremated, and their ashes taken to their family plot. The front stone can be lifted and a space for many small urns is below.

The sticks behind the stones are bought by donation to the shrine, and the flowers also come from one of the ten or so shrines around the cemetary.

 


If you are a really large rich family you have a stupa  and a mosuleum on your plot. Various other stone adornments like lanterns and buddas also abound. 

Thursday, January 1, 2009

Playing Dress Up




It seems our hostess has a collection of dress up clothes. I guess one aquires a number of kimonos while living in Japan...

She spent quite a bit of time trying to cover up the unnatural colors in my hair...