Steampunk How-To - Mummy Drafting

I'm no stranger to pattern drafting, in fact most of my costumes have been a custom creation by necessity! Firstly, to create (or recreate) a specific idea. Secondly, because my measurements don't seem to neatly fit a single size category. However, I have had some struggles with my Victorian creations. I finally pinpointed the issue - the corset. 

Corsets do more than tuck in the waist, they completely change the silhouette of the body. I've always managed to make reasonable adjustments for the differing distances between measure points (bust, waist, etc.) but struggles with sleeve holes and collars. The answer to this, is to make the measurements with a corset on... (duh.)

Yep, I'm a genius, right?

So, for the first time, I decided on the cheatyface approach, and got mummified. (Full disclaimer, I was not in fact embalmed.) I got a helper at my job to wrap me up, first with layers of plastic wrap, then with broad masking tape. Lesson one  - let the plastic wrap cover far more than the tape, peeling it off the tops of my boobs hurt. A lot. 

I then cut it into pattern sized pieces, as straight as one can manage on layers of tape and cling film. These were measured and traced, then smoothed out for my pattern pieces. 

Next, I prepared the materials. Oh? You thought I just went and bought some fabric? Where's the fun in that!? Why would I buy fabric, when my parents just cleared out all the curtains from a large room? 

Well, I mean, there is all the work that goes into reclaiming the fabric... but that 70s Victorian revival cannot be beat!

I did the test sewing with some white satin, if it works it becomes the lining. If not, well back to the drawing board! It did need a minor tweak, minor enough to avoid remaking the entire thing. I then used the pieces (notice I'm adding a seam allowance to the fabric, instead of the pattern pieces, this allows me to use the pattern with very different fabrics that might require a different allowance.) to cut my finals. 

Voila! It fit on the first try! Now onto sleeves... and skirt... and bustle... oh my. My consensus on the Mummy method?  10/10 - Would wrap again! (Stay tuned for more post about the finished product...

Five Great Upcycling Projects for Denim

Upcycling Denim is kind of my thing, I have literal piles of old pants, bins of denim scraps, and loads of cut up pieces. Whenever I think I'm making progress, BAM  - someone brings be another box of torn-kneed denim. Seriously, some friends just leave it on my porch. So, for anyone who doesn't want to start a factory style assembly line of upcycled Denim Bags, here's some other project ideas!

One can, of course, simple cannibalize old pants for the fabric and sew any project you can imagine that involves some small pieces. I could not hope to make something so cute as this Adorable Whale, so I'll send you to it's creator!



Use the sturdiness of the material to your advantage! A long lasting rug can be made from even small scraps.

For the more ambitious, be inspired by the Scrap Lab. This chair is made from industrial scraps and suggest a plethora of furniture options. Perhaps with old chair frames that have lost their fabric bits?

 A sleek and simple choice - potholders from the pockets of old pants. (Be sure your machine can handle sewing thru that many denim layers!) Also, how crafty are the Finns!

If you want to turn those pockets into more spaces for holding things (as pockets are wont to do), consider an organizer. You might think it looks like overkill, and you don't have all that much stuff... you do. Unless your house looks like an IKEA catalog, you can totally find enough random things laying around to warrant wall pockets.

Picture Perfect

 After much dithering I finally shelled out the big bucks for some prints of my graduation photos, and when you've paid $30 a pop for a picture, it deserves a good frame! Let's ignore for a moment, the price of the actual college education...

Since I earned a fiber arts degree, it seems only fitting that the frame should reflect that. Plus, I wouldn't want it to look all stuffy and professional! So I got into the bowl of small scraps and warmed up the glue gun.

 

The tricky bits - I started each scrap by gluing down the inner edge where the glass will press against the frame, then I spread the rest with glue and smoothed it down. Also, I cut mitered corners in order to get a fairly neat look at each corner. Then, I trimmed all the excess fabric from the back edge of the frame.

After an hour and some brand new blisters, the first frame was ready to go. The base is a cheap IKEA frame, simply because my trip to the thrift store was fruitless.

Pow! Now doesn't that match the decor better than a plain old white or some stuffy wood-grain thing? Yep, that's what my college education got me, a desire to cover things in fabric using my glue gun...

I had a Notion...

 In fact, I have dozens of them. Bags of vintage cards covered in seam bindings and hem tape. I'm not much of a seam finisher, I use french seams when ever possible to reign in those fuzzy ends.

But I must admit, seam binding made an easy option for what would otherwise be a tricky hem! I bought new fabric this weekend (just what I need, it was on sale! Don't give me that look...) I wanted  simple A-line skirt, but I always want pockets! So I cut a pocket opening and a pocket backing. I opted against a hanging pocket since those always ride up on me.

 I dug out some lovely light blue seam binding, and quick as a cat chasing a squirrel who ate the face off a jack-o-lantern it was hemmed. A nice contrast to an otherwise plain skirt.

 It was quick to sew up, the most time was spent on the zipper and four buttons! I bought two fabrics, and I think with the other one I'll make a wider skirt for more fluff! Perhaps the best way to keep the stash under control would be to sew with fabrics almost the same day you get them home...

Oh, and did I mention I finished my heirloom Peardrop? Local Colorado Black Welsh and Shetland in marvelous heathered charcoals. Now I'm ready for my day!

Are you stash building or stash busting? What about using up those old notions?

Quilt Time

 I've been cutting and piecing a singleton scrap quilt for more than a year now. I finally found enough different fabrics to complete 140 five inch squares with each fabric being used only once for each shape. Yes, I spent a lot of time staring at almost identical solids...

I cleared out the living room so I could lay out the squares, but only after the cats had inspected the work space.

 This is what a fabric rainbow looks like! 14 rows of 10 squares each with the colors gradating as best I can. I also had to keep fussing with it to make sure pieces of the same fabric weren't next to each other.

 Here's Count Von Gingerpaws inspecting my work. Pay no mind to the sneer, nothing is ever good enough for him. *sigh*

I carefully stacked each row in order to prepare for sewing. I had cut strips of white and cream colored fabric scraps to space each square, so each row was sewn into a long strip.

Then to go between each of these long row I sewed every single white scrap I could find in the craft room into a 32 yard long strip. This will be tricky to get straight between the rows, but it is the most efficient use of the fabric.

I then ran out of all desire to keep sewing and stuffed the project away for another day. It's hot in this house yaknow! Progress...

Napkins

A while back I discovered that my house was very lacking, there was nothing to wipe your face with! I was also on a embroidery binge, and had plenty of left over crewel wool from my wheel of the year project. I had bought several packs of cotton tea towels to dye for use in my kitchen, and instead I set one aside for making napkins.

I penciled in swirly designs along the hemmed edge of the towel, using a ruler to make the sides somewhat symmetrical. After using all my left-over greens to edge the entire towel I cut it into fourths.
Now we all know that white things rarely stay that way, particularly if you are encouraging people to wipe their faces and fingers with them. So I tea dyed them to a nice antiqued tan. I put water, black tea bags, and a splash of vinegar on to boil. Added the napkins and kept at a low simmer for a little while (boiling wool tends to shrink it of course). I let it soak overnight, rinsed and hung to dry.
The cotton turned a lovely pale tan color, and some of the lighter greens were also toned a bit. The best part of this, if these become stained, or if the color fades too much, I can easily dye them again.
Growing up my family had a number of napkins hand made by my grandmother, a few even had embroidery and beads on them. It's such a simple easy way to add a little color and flair to your table. Have you ever made napkins, table mats, or tablecloths?

Dying to Get Some of This!

While digging thru some papers from the 1880s in my mothers storage I came across this little goodie, a cheaply printed and obviously poorly cut booklet from the Diamond Dye company! This was the early days of aniline (coal tar) dyes, synthasized from chemicals instead of extracted from plants. The dyes were much more reliable and light fast than natural dyes, but were (and to some extent still are!) extremely toxic.
This booklet told the tale of a black cat whose kittens were all pure white - totally unfashionable in the Victorian era. So she buys some dye and plunges them all into a boiling toxic dye bath... and they are magically brilliant black for the rest of their lives!
The booklet suggested using dyes to keep up with the latest fashions by recoloring clothing, to dye rags for carpets, to color ostrich feather tips (sure, I have a closet full of those..) and to keep children's clothing looking new(er). While the glowing reviews seem a little forced, the idea that one could keep altering ones clothing instead of getting new things all the time is refreshing. Would you change the colors of your clothes to keep up with the styles?

Another Fabric Sale, Another Dress

My local craft shop Fancy Tiger had a huge sale this weekend, and I couldn't help myself with this lovely Moda print - I got it in two colorways! And some contrasting solids to make cute dresses with, I never seem to get tired of this pattern.
I made slight alterations in the shape of the dress, so I always outline all my cuts before I make any to be sure it all fits and there is little waste.
To avoid using a seam ripper I lay out pieces in order to make sure they will all be facing the right way and fitting together. It's the first time the fabric starts to look like something wearable...
I make all my seams doubled, so first I have to ignore my sewing training and sew things together with the wrong sides facing! Then I trim the edge and sew it together the right way. I makes it sturdy and keeps the inside looking neat.
The contrast fabric is for the halter neck, I lost the pieces for the neckline (little things bah!) So I used the drawings on the package and measuring tape to recreate them. I then sewed the wrong edge >.<
Putting the final touches on - it seems I picked fabrics that match my sewing machine very well. Add seven vintage buttons up the back and voíla! It's a dress! A great way to spend a Saturday afternoon after some fabric shopping. And I have more fabric to go!